If you’ve ever stood in front of your mirror wondering “wait… which product goes first?”—you’re not alone! From toner to serums and creams it can get confusing and redundant. Yet, skincare isn’t just about the products you use, it’s about how you use them. The order you apply your products can truly make or break your routine, affecting how well ingredients absorb and how effective they actually are.
Think of your skincare routine like creating an outfit: would you wear a jacket under a tank top? No, and the same logic applies here—you go from the lightest, most absorbable products to the heaviest, most occlusive.
Let’s break it down step-by-step so your routine actually works for your skin, not against it.
Step 1: Cleanser
Why cleanse first? Think of it like this: you’re starting your routine with a clean canvas. Cleansing rids the skin of dirt, oils, makeup, and other buildup on your skin whether from the day or overnight. Without this step, your skin has a harder time absorbing topical products and bacteria can be trapped.
Pro tip: I like to cleanse once in the morning and twice at night
- Morning: use a gentle, non-stripping cleanser (I prefer a gentle water-based cleanser)
- Night: double cleanse to ensure removal of makeup and SPF (1st cleanse is an oil cleanser, and second is a foaming cleanser)
Step 1b: Exfoliants
Exfoliants should not be part of an everyday routine, but can be effective when used correctly, only at night, and no more than 2-3 times a week. They aid in removing dead skin cells, paving the way for products to penetrate your pores more properly, and leading to a more even, radiant skin tone. It is important to avoid over-exfoliation (signs of burning, redness, and flaking), avoid mixing with strong active ingredients (retinol), and ensuring hydration.
Step 2: Toner
Using a toner is an underrated and overlooked step in skincare. When applied to freshly cleansed skin it allows for a reset and prep for absorbing the rest of your routine. Toners are typically water-based, perfect for balancing the pH of your skin.
What to look for in a toner:
- Hydrating toners (containing hyaluronic acid and glycerin)
- Make sure to avoid alcohol-heavy formulas as they usually strip the skin (unless specifically needed)
Step 3: Serums
Serums are specifically formulated with highly concentrated active ingredients with very small molecules, allowing them to penetrate through the skin. This should be the third step to ensure maximum effectiveness as toners will prepare the skin for absorption of these ingredients. For best results, serums should be applied from thinnest to thickest consistency.
Commonly used serums:
- Vitamin C- for brightening the skin, best used in the morning
- Niacinamide- for oil and redness control
- Hyaluronic acid- for hydration and plumping the skin
- Retinol- for anti-aging/reducing wrinkles, best used at night
Step 4: Eye Cream
Why does this step come before moisturizer? The skin around your eyes is much thinner and more sensitive than the rest of your skin. It is important to apply eye cream prior to heavier products to make sure it is properly absorbed.
Application tip:
Use your ring finger to be more precise and delicate, and gently tap (do not rub)
Step 4b: Spot Treatments
Spot treatments are designed to treat blemishes individually, instead of treating the entirety of your skin. They are typically very concentrated in active ingredients for maximum precision and effectiveness. It is essential to apply these prior to moisturizer so heavier creams are not lowering the level of penetration.
Step 5: Moisturizer
In order to lock in the previous products, moisturizer should be applied next. It allows for you to seal in the hydration and active ingredients while strengthening the skin barrier. It almost acts as a seal to prevent the other products from evaporating.
Types of moisturizers:
- Gel moisturizer- for oily/acne-prone skin
- Cream moisturizer- for dry/sensitive skin
Step 6: Face Oil (Optional)
Oils are heavier and more occlusive than moisturizers, which is why applying them last helps locking in all layers and preventing moisture loss.
Important note:
Oils themselves do not hydrate, but seal hydration in, due to the separation in density.
Step 7: Sunscreen (Morning Only)
Sunscreen is non-negotiably the final skincare step. SPF forms a protective barrier for your skin from harmful rays, which is why applying anything afterwards can disrupt the effectiveness of it. A minimum of SPF 30 should be applied every day, even when cloudy.
Why is SPF essential?
- Prevention of premature aging
- Protection against skin cancer
- Stopping hyperpigmentation from worsening
Golden Rules of Applying Skincare
- Apply thin to thick/ lightest to heaviest
- Give products time to absorb by waiting 30-60 seconds between layers
- consistency> complexity: a daily simple routine beats a complicated hard-to-follow routine
Final Thoughts
Skincare isn’t about having the most products, the trending products, or the most aesthetically pleasing products—it’s about using the right ones in the right order. Once you understand how layering works, your routine becomes way more effective (and honestly, way less confusing).
Your skin is absorbing everything you put on it—so make sure you’re giving it the best chance to actually use those ingredients.
Because good skincare isn’t just what you use, it’s how you use it!
Works Cited
American Academy of Dermatology Association. “Exfoliation: What You Need to Know.” AAD.org, https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/care/exfoliation.
American Academy of Dermatology Association. “Acne: Diagnosis and Treatment.” AAD.org, https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/treatment.
Draelos, Zoe Diana. Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. 2nd ed., Wiley-Blackwell, 2015.
Ganceviciene, Ruta, et al. “Skin Anti-Aging Strategies.” Dermato-Endocrinology, vol. 4, no. 3, 2012, pp. 308–319.
Kafi, R., et al. “Improvement of Naturally Aged Skin with Vitamin A (Retinol).” Archives of Dermatology, vol. 143, no. 5, 2007, pp. 606–612.
Mukherjee, S., et al. “Retinoids in the Treatment of Skin Aging: An Overview of Clinical Efficacy and Safety.” Clinical Interventions in Aging, vol. 1, no. 4, 2006, pp. 327–348.
National Institutes of Health. “Salicylic Acid.” PubChem, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Salicylic-acid.
National Institutes of Health. “Benzoyl Peroxide.” PubChem, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Benzoyl-peroxide.
Thiboutot, Diane, et al. “New Insights into the Management of Acne: An Update from the Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne Group.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, vol. 60, no. 5, 2009, pp. S1–S50.
Van Scott, Eugene J., and Ruey J. Yu. “Control of Keratinization with Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Related Compounds.” Archives of Dermatology, vol. 110, no. 4, 1974, pp. 586–590.
Webster, Guy F., et al. “Benzoyl Peroxide: A Review of Its Current Use in the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris.” Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, vol. 1, no. 1, 2008, pp. 48–52.
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